Saturday 24 January 2009

White men CAN jump

Contrary to common belief, white men can jump, at least when it comes to volleyball over here. Since next week is the big sports tournament with all the schools of Akroso participating - hopefully, because it was supposed to be this week - I am currently coaching the girls' and boys' volleyball team. Looking at the boys' team, I hope to get a kind of system into their game before the tournament. Looking at the girls, I have lost all hope...
Prior to the tournament every child had to be weighed, because there is a weight limit. Even though I lost 5kg, stepping onto the scale, I am still too heavy to participate (overlooking the fact that I have a teacher and not a pupil status).
I also had my first lesson, but at the moment I am more of a substitute teacher, teaching when one of the teachers decides not to show up. Nevertheless, considering the seize of the classes, which oscillate between 40 and 70 - depending on whether it's market day and other factors - and the fact that I do not use the cain like my fellow colleagues to punish students, I'm fine with a slow start:)
On Thursday the whole school marched through town to advertise for education/ their own school. (a picture will be added)

Thursday 22 January 2009

Life in general

Before I get to my first lessons I will talk a bit more about life in Ghana. I have noticed that I have barely written anything about life in general over here, only about things that were kinda special. Domi's comment asking me about the weather made it even clearer to me that I had to write about daily occurrences.
First of all the weather is really nice at the moment due to the Harmattan, a wind that blows from the Sahara and makes the air relatively cold down here in southern Ghana. When I get up in the morning I actually feel a bit cold, but it's bearable and during the day it's very pleasant. However, I'm used to colder weather, which the people over here are not. That means that I see many of my pupils running around, wearing jackets and jumpers over their school uniform and telling me that it's really, really cold.



(This video was filmed at the church on my first Sunday in Ghana, only I forgot to upload it so I'm doing it now. You will have to turn your head 90* for this because I don't know hao to turn videos. The more important part is the sound anyway, for which you don't have to turn your ears 90*, hoehoehoe; I know that joke was extremely bad:)
To get from one point to another I usually use trotros, which are converted Mitsubishi vans (or similar) to hold 10-20 people, depending on the vehicle and the "mate", who collects the money and decides how many more people can fit in the trotro. They do regular police checks here, because - from what I've heard so far - the trotros used to be very overcrowded, which I feel they are right now, so I cannot imagine how packed they must have been years ago...
On trotros and off them I get regularly talked to by strangers, mainly because I am an Oburoni. Many of them want to be my friend and ask for my email adress or phone number, to which I usually regretfully reply that I have nothing to write with at hand and they never have either. But generally, the people are really friendly and many would go miles off their way just to help you. However, I still need to find the line that seperates the individual from his culture. By that I mean, I don't know what is the general norm of the people and what do they do because of their individual character. It's really hard to tell.
My hostparents have three TVs in their living room, but so far I have only seen ne of them work. On TV3 they show LIVE PREMIER LEAGUE MATCHES!!! So on Monday evening I watched Liverpool v Everton.
Powercuts occur regularly here, mainly because the whole of Ghana has only one huge source of energy: The Volta dam. It produces enough energy for the whole of Ghana, but especially in villages, like Akroso, the energy network lacks reliability. When I came home from school two days ago there was no electricity until yesterday afternoon, which made Tuesday kind of special, because everybody had their oil lamps outside and the kids weren't glued to the television...
That night I also heard drums. Maybe that was the replacement communication system or maybe that was a group celebrating like the two days before, not being disturbed by the power cut.
Chuck Norris fact:
When the Boogeyman goes to sleep every night, he checks his closet for Chuck Norris.
This fact has a reason to be here: Last week at school some pupils said, I look like 'Walker', by which he meant Walker Texas Ranger, played by the one and only Chuck Norris.

I'll write about the school on Saturday, because I don't have any time left on the clock and I want to get home before dark. Not becuase I'm afraid of muggers or anything; Ghana has an extremely low crime rate, but because it has the third highest road accident rate in the world. Those happen mostly at night, because the trotro drivers tend to fall asleep and the condition of the road is sooooo bad. Streets have as many potholes in the road as there are stars in the sky.

Saturday 17 January 2009

A few things about home

Ghana is a noisy country and everybody has got his radio turned on, which consists 50% of advertisement and 40% of noise and shouting from the presenter and 10% of proper music.
So you might sometimes think there's a big party going on when actually there's just a woman washing some clothes while listening to the radio.
They don't understand the question "Do you mind, if...?" which is why I have to learn to ask directly "Can I...? or something similar.
I still don't have a clue, who is related to whom at my compound. There are a few families with lots of children, most of which just live nearby and just come over.
When Ghanaians talk (between themselves, not with me), they usualy talk Twinglish over here. Similar to Denglish, only I don't understand half the conversation

Sittin' in the shade of the tree, wasting time...

Before I tell you about my project I'm just gonna talk a bit about what happened after last weeks blog entry:


On the way back, sitting in the trotro, there was a big group of people coming towards us shouting and whisteling, basically celebrating. A couple of guys were carrying a coffin, not like they do here, on the shoulders and very slow. Oh noo, they were dancing and jumping with the coffin in their hands. Back at home, while peeling the maize, my two German housemates, Clara & Judith, came back from their travels.


The next morning I tought I would meet two other volunteers in Akroso around 8:30 to go to the Salvation Army school together. However, at about 7:50 I asked my host mother whether she received a letter of introduction from my organisation for the headmaster. Reading it, I discovered I have to go to the Presbyterian Junior High School and a girl would take me there. The girl said the school starts at 7:30, so I skipped a few things and rushed to the school, where no teacher had arrived so far. Since the school opened that day after the Christmas break, the children tidied up the school on Tuesday and Wednesday. That meant I just sat in the shade all day and talked to colleagues and students hence the title (a litte homage to Otis Redding, for those who didn't notice. It's one of my 3 favourite songs in the world by the way)


My colleagues asked me, if I believe in god, and after saying that I'm atheist I had to explain the universe, including the big bang theory and the theory of evolution, as simple and as short as possible. That's really hard considering they have never heard of the big bang and can associate the theory of evolution only with a guy called Darwin.


Thinking about the current English sensitivity towards knives (in school), I discovered they couldn't be more relaxed about it here, with the children carrying big machetes around with them... I bought one myself on the market in Akroso on Thursday. Depending on airline regulatoins I am considering bringing it home and hanging it on the wall. (I guess my mum will not be very happy reading this:)


On Wednesday I was in Swedru at the Oburoni meeting,where I talked to two Germans who are here for 12 months and gave a a few ideas about getting a few financial gains from my trip to Ghana. They want to ship African drums to sell them in Germany, which is too much hassle for me, but I might do somethig like that on a lower scale.


Yesterday I travelled with a few other volunteers to Cape coast to see the castle, which was really interesting (I don't mean that in an English way). Cape Coast was one of three castles on the Gold Coast, where thousands of slaves were held til a ship brought them to the New World. Together with Elmina castle, a few miles away, it forms the epicentre of one of the greatest crimes in human history.


(That top bit of the picture is my hat, I bougt on the arts and crafts market in Accra, and the walls belong to Cape Coast Castle)

After the castle we had lunch in the sea-view Castle Restaurant where I had one and a half dishes due to another volunteer's lack of appetite. I then waited in the Barclay's bank for one of the others to exchange her traveler cheques, but considering the airconditioning cooling down the room to 23*C, it was extremely bearable.
Together wit 14 other volunteers, I met during the introduction week in Accra, I'm staying at Hans Cottage Botel, which is a small resthouse complex with a lake full of crocodiles and a pool. I'll be leaving on Sunday and until then I'll just relax and sleep looooong. Yesterday evening, after dinner, I abseiled myself from the group and joined two German volunteers and their Ghanaian coordinator, because I thought the group was too large and I enjoyed the company of the two girls more than most members of the other group:)
I'm still looking for a good travelling companion. There was a Norwegian, but he's been sent to Tamale on short notice. Also he's got Malaria after just one week, taking one of the best malara prophylaxis. If I count correctly he must have been stung by a mosquito while we were sleeping in the same room in Accra. So it could have been me. Travelling-wise I'll se how it goes.
This morning I went to Kakum National Park, walking on the canopy walkway and afterwards doing a nature tour on the ground afterwards. There were two American girls with me on the canopy walk, but they then left so only the guide and I did the hour-long tour on the ground of the rain forest. I will return in May to stay in the Park for the night and be shown around very early to be able to see some of the larger animals like monkeys and such. (My phone was empty so I couldn't take any pictures for my blog, but I'll be back)

Monday 12 January 2009

Oburoni, Oburoni



That's what I'm called over here, in Akroso, by people I don't know. It translates as "white person", but literally means "he, who comes from the horizon", which was the Portuguese hundreds of years ago. Some call me Sammy because they cannot pronounce my name, but since my Twi isn't that great either, I'm not the one to judge. My African name, used by the Ghanaians who know me is "Kwaku Bokoo", Kwaku for I was born on a Wednesday and Bokoo for "exercise patience" (kind of ironic, because in Europe I'm the patient one:) . My host father is called Bokoo and he gave me his own name.
On Friday we were brought to our projects. All the people from around Swedru were brought by Tina, the coordinator of the local organisation. The further we went out of Acrra the greater it got. The outskirts consisted mainly of slums. Outside of Acrra is was mainly grass and bush with some tree groups on the hills, but once we had travelled some distance the jungle started. Lots of palms, orange tress, banana palms... I couldn't swipe that smile from my face. On the way we dropped of the other volunteers until we reached Akroso, where only the last six volunteers, including me, remained. Three girls were dropped off before me and two girls were brought to Oda, after I was dropped.
After getting to know my family and giving them the presents I went to bed fairly early, because I was exhausted, mainly because of the heat and sun. The bucket shower felt brilliant. Yes a bucket shower. Basically that's a bucket full of water, with a small bucket to scoop and pour water over my head. The toilet is a small hut with a pit...
One of the girls that arrived here with me left yesterday for Accra because the living conditions were too basic for here. But I can manage and I don't mind the occasional cockroach in the "bathroom" that much:) By now I'm also adjusted to the heat. Dinner was really weird because I ate alone facing a wall. They do not eat together as a family over here.
On Saturday I went farming with the children of the compound. We went into the jungle, where we started digging out roots like kasawa and getting bananas, firewood... The children seemed to know which part of the jungle was their farm and which was the farm of others. I just saw a group of orange trees there and a group of banana palms there. From there my mother received her first call from the jungle:) The reception is amazing, because everybody uses mobile phones instead of landlines. This also means that the calls are extremely cheap. (Fresh oranges straight from the tree are very nice; I also learned to like fresh pineapple over here)


(I climbed on a tree to take that picture)


(My host brother on the way back)


The next day my hostfather took me to church. We were the first because the night before they were at the church until 24:00!!! People strarted coming and the service eventually started. My host father as one of the elders of the church community to the side of the priest. Mostly the service is not much different from ours with exception that the preachiongs have more power and are often followed by an equally powerful Amen from the community. Also part of the service consists of singing and dancing accompanied by music from a small band.
(Pictures and a video will follow as soon as I get to an internet cafe where the USB port is not disabled)
In the afternoon I went to Swedru to have something checked out at the hospital. A fungus probably, but they are not certain either and I only know/ think because I've had it before. Apart from an ointment the doctor perscribed me antibiotics. Surprise, surprise!
This morning my hostmother was making bread, but I couldn't be bothered getting up at 5:30 so I didn't join her:) I'm really looking forward this afternoon because the two German girls that stay at my host mother's as well return from their travelling.

Thursday 8 January 2009

A few of facts about Ghana 1

Ghana has thje Ghanaian cedi is about equivalent to the US dollar. In 2007 it was redominatedwith 10.000 cedi = 1 cedi
After no canditate reached absolute majority, a re-run of the election took place between the two strongest canditates, Atta Mills and Addo (see link on right side for more information on the election). Atta Mills won the re-run with a difference of about 40.000 votes,not even reaching 51%.
A packet of water (500ml) costs 5 pesewas (about 3-4p)

Ssessime

(That's Twi for 'change is coming' or something similar)
In the morning, we went through Accra by bus, which has a couple of nice sites to look at, but nothing special. What was special however, was that the whole area around the Independence square was crowded with thousands of people celebrating the fact that the opposition leader Atta Mills won the re-run of the presidential election. The Independence square was packed and people were going round taking down flags of the old leading party, but everything in a jolly and celebrational manner. Lots of people made the sign of change (substitution in sports) and were happy when we repeated the sign. Imagine Gordon Brown loosing the next election and Picadilly Circus and the area in front of the Parliament being so packed with people that the average car speed is 10 feet per hour. Those who watched "V for Vendetta" already have a rough idea of what I'm talking about. Also great was the market, where lots of people would great us and ask were we came from and so on. Again lots of people were happy when we repeated the sign of change or Ssessime after them. Some also taught us the sign for 'no change' :)
In the afternoon, we had an inroduction to the places to visit and Twi, the language spoke in Ghana, except for the north and the Eastern Region.

That's us sitting in the shade next to the mausoleum of Nkrumah, the man who declared Ghana's independence and became the first president of independent Ghana. There was a smale museum solely consisting of pictures of famous people visting Nkrumah and a couple of things Nkrumah possessed or used. Nevertheless, I could still feel the admiration and pride our guide felt for Nkrumah.

That evening I arrived at the hostel finding out that I had got a room mate, who nobody at the hostel had excpected.
Today, we learned to cook Ghanaian food, which was delicious, but one dish was also extremely hot. I didn't really participate. Not because I don't want to learn to cook the food, but because I will ask my host mother to teach me 1 on 1, which I think is more uselful than 10 people standing around one cook, some doing something, others not...

After that we just ate the food and relaxed in the shade on the premisis of the local organisation. With a gust of wind that afternoon was perfect.

In the afternoon all the German and Swedish people went to their embassy to register. That way, if there's a ,they know, which Germans/Swedish are in Ghana. After that we took a cab to beach, where the sea was seriously warm. I would say it was warmer than the Mediterranean Sea is during summer!!! Apart from the Ghanaian 'salesmen', there was a German who wanted to sell me something. Saws in fact. Very cheap for building community centres and schools... Not even the Germans leave you alone over here:)

Tuesday 6 January 2009

F***ing Hell

That's what I first thought stepping out of the plane and I don't mean that in a negative way. When I left London, it had snowed there overnight, whilst in Accra it was around 20-25*C. It was like stepping out of the winter into the summer. (Fucking hell is also what I'm thinking right now, because the internet so soooooooo slow) After having watched "Ghost Town" and "How to loose friends and alienate people", two films I can definitely recommend, on the plane I landed at 21:00 and was picked up by members of the local organisation. Together with a couple of Germans and Norwegians I was brought to my hostel, where I got a room for myself with ensuite bathroom. Isn't as great as it sounds, because the air conditioning isn't working properly and the room isn't that nice (depending on the point of view). Also I didn't sleep that well...
Considering that I am no morning person and had to get up at 7, I didn't feel very well in the morning either. Nevertheless, from then on it only got better.
(For those who don't know, I'll be staying in Accra til Friday for my introduction course before leaving for my project) In the hostel there are about 40 volunteers from Norway, Germany, Sweden, the Netherlands and Australia taking part in the course. However, I'm the only one from my organization in Germany and male volunteers are in the minority, which isn't a bad thing necessarily:).
At around 8 we were picked up and brought to the local organisation, where we were split into two groups. My group had an introduction course about Ghana (culture, health...).
After lunch in a Chinese restaurant, we got to the most fun part of the day:
Drumming and dancing
(Apart from taking pictures with my analog camera, which will be hopefully better than this one, I will take a few pictures with my mobile phone so I have of pictures to put on this blog)
After learning the basics of drumming and the "Fume Fume" (I don't know if that's spelled correctly), we also learned to dance to this "song". I'm really amazed by the African sense of rythm (for my thoughts on this, see title). We've been offered to have a custom built drum for 50 cedis, chossing everything from wood colour to signs and words on the side of the drum. I will decide this later depending on money and baggage.

Sunday 4 January 2009


Yes, there's a huuuuuge mess in my room and I'm probably the only one who can see a structure in that pile of chaos.
As I was just browsing through the internet looking for ideas for presents, I stumbled upon a blog by a German girl, who incidentally lives not just in the same village, but also in the same compound and has the same host mother. Now that's just pure luck (finding the blog on the internet - not the fact that there's somebody in the same compound, because there are a couple of other volunteer there), so as I read it I found out quite a lot about my accommodation. Since this shot down a lot of uncertainties of mine, I feel a huge relief. I couldn't be in a better mood right now. This also means I couldn't care less about the mess in my room...

Friday 2 January 2009

Project details

Accommodation: Room in a compound house
Where: Akim Akroso, a village in the Eastern Region (That's the name of the region, it doesn't actually cover the eastern part of Ghana due to the historical formation of Ghana)
You can see where the village is, if you search for "Akroso" in google maps
Host family: 6 children, 2 girls, 4 boys
There are no communication centres in the Town, so I won't be able to phone anybody, unless I go to Accra or a nearby city
My living conditions will be very, very different. They have no shower, a pit as a toilet, a local fire/ coal pot for cooking and a borehole for drinking water. At least they have electricity and guaranteed running water. Seriously looking forward to that...

Project:
Akroso Salvatio Army Primary/JSS (It was established by the Salvation Army, but it is now run by the government)
Work duties: Teaching English and Mathematics (Very keen to do the second one, not quite as much entusiasm for the first one)
Also I'll be helping with extra curricular activities, e.g. sports
The school has got about 100 pupils and 8 members of staff and no volunteers so far
I can have any off time I want and there's about a month of holidays => Lots and lots of travelling
Apart from the official language of Ghana, English, the local language Twi is spoken.
I do hope to come back from Ghana being able to speak a few sentences in Twi:)